What to do in eSwatini with kids with kids? The Kingdom of Eswatini, better known to us as Swaziland, is a very small country in northeastern South Africa. We have visited many countries in southern Africa, but had never been here. So when we decided to combine a diving vacation with the Kruger Park in the May vacation, we thought of also taking Eswatini, as it was right on the itinerary. In this blog we provide all the information you need for a tour of eSwatini with kids.
eSwatini with kids
Our trip to eSwatini
Our trip to Eswatini was part of a larger road trip. We flew from Brussels via Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) to Johannesburg. There we picked up our rental car. From Johannesburg we drove via the beautiful Kuleni Game Park (absolutely recommended!) and Sodwana Bay (also recommended with kids) towards the border with Eswatini.
We crossed the border at Lavumisa/Golela, in southern Eswatini. And fair is fair: we were prepared for the worst. Our previous experiences with African border crossings were not too positive: lots of paperwork, long waits, unclear rules, bureaucratic hassles.
But to our great surprise, this border crossing was super fast and smooth. In no time we were driving into Eswatini. We looked at each other and said, “Was this it?” A wonderful start to our stay!
First impression of Eswatini
What struck us immediately was that Eswatini really feels like “pure Africa” – a bit like Botswana – but with vast fields of sugar cane. The roads are generally passable, but beware: there are many speed humps, and they are not always well marked. So paying close attention while driving is important.
And then there is the royal character of the country. King Mswati III is visible everywhere: his portraits hang in many places. He is known as the king who annually chooses a new fiancée from thousands of dancing women during a ceremony. A special tradition that you will probably hear more about along the way.
From the border, it was less than a two-hour drive to our destination: Hlane Royal National Park – the perfect place to start your adventure in Eswatini with kids!
Hlane Royal National Park
#1 Activities at Ndlovu Camp in Hlane Royal National Park
Are you traveling through Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) with kids and, like us, love animals? Then a stay in Hlane Royal National Park is highly recommended. We chose the Ndlovu Camp and this turned out to be a hit for our whole family.
What makes Ndlovu Camp so enjoyable is that it is completely fenced in. That means you do experience the atmosphere of the wilderness, but large animals like elephants, rhinos and hippos can’t just wander onto the property. Ideal with kids!
Still, there is plenty to see. Several species of antelope roam freely and are not at all shy. Our daughters quickly gave them names – from “Lola” to “Sprite” – and often stood with their noses against the fence to see which of their friends were passing by again today.
Rhinos also abound in this part of the park. You can often admire them from the camp grounds, just outside the fence. In the evening we sat with a drink in our hand on one of the chairs strategically placed by the staff. View of the waterhole with hippos AND a few grazing rhinos: what more could you want? And the best part is: the kids can play and walk around safely.
Ndlovu Camp is not large, but certainly fun to explore on foot. There are several accommodations – from camping sites to cottages – and along the way you will encounter birds, colorful insects and curious antelope. Truly a mini safari in itself.
#2 Game drives: organized or on your own
Through the reception of Ndlovu Camp you can easily book an organized game drive. Here you go out with a ranger to the parts of the park where lions live. Note: this is only allowed with kids six years and older. Unfortunately, our youngest was just five, so we opted to go on our own gamedrive with our own car.
And that was by no means a disappointment. We saw all kinds of animals, from zebras to giraffes and, of course, some impressive rhinos again. A nice tip: give your kid(s) a simple camera so they can take their own pictures. That makes it even more fun and interactive.
#3 Back to basics
At Ndlovu Camp, don’t expect modern luxuries. Electricity is limited and you can only charge devices at the restaurant. In the cottages there is no electricity and at night there is hardly any lighting. But that is precisely what makes it such a special adventure. At the end of the afternoon you get a few oil lamps that you can place in your cottage.
For our kids, this was a real discovery: brushing your teeth in the dark with a headlamp on and playing games by candlelight. Exciting and cozy. By the way, a headlamp is not a luxury here, so be sure to bring one (or two)!
If you are traveling with teenagers, it is good to know that the wifi is limited. You get 500 MB and it only works near the restaurant. Quite a challenge for screen lovers – but actually nice to really get away from the Internet for a while.
#4 Traditional dance performance
Sometimes, if there are enough guests, a traditional dance performance is held in the evening. A group of performers in colorful attire sing and dance without electric amplification. The energy they exude is impressive. Our oldest daughter – who loves dance and music – loved it. And of course she was allowed to join in for a while. An experience never to forget!
#5 Souvenirs and ice creams
Finally, at the reception you will find a small souvenir store. Here you can buy fun African gadgets – ideal if, like ours, your kids like to take something small home with them. And extra nice: they also sell ice creams!
Family-friendly restaurant eSwatini
During our stay at Ndlovu Camp, in the beautiful Hlane Royal National Park, we quickly found out that you can eat great food in Eswatini even with kids. Below are our experiences with food and drink in and around the park.
Cooking yourself in your cottage
Want to cook for yourself? You can! The houses in Ndlovu Camp are equipped with a simple kitchen, where you can easily put a meal on the table. Do keep in mind that you have to bring your own groceries, because stores are not directly near the camp. We did our shopping in advance in South Africa, so we arrived well prepared.
Restaurant Ndlovu Camp
Rather not cook for yourself? Then the restaurant at Ndlovu Camp is the place to be. This is a cozy place where you can eat with the whole family.
Buffet: If the camp is well attended, an extensive buffet is served both in the morning and in the evening. The buffet is surprisingly delicious, with ample choice ánd affordable. The four of us paid around €50 for a complete dinner including drinks. The breakfast buffet is just as extensive and ideal for a good start to the day.
Menu: When it is quieter in camp, a menu is used. Fortunately, there are plenty of dishes on there that are suitable for kids. Think fries, chicken nuggets and other fried favorites. Not super healthy, but our daughters were thickly satisfied.
The restaurant is located in a nice spot in the camp, overlooking the surroundings. You sit there safe and relaxed, while your kids can refuel after an active day.
Where to stay in eSwatini with kids
Besides the Ndlovu Camp, you have several accommodations in eSwatini, where you can stay perfectly well with the family. We list below some of the top rated accommodations where you can stay in eSwatini with kids.
Budget accommodation: Wide Horizons Mountain Retreat
Middle Class Accommodation: Mbuluzi Game Reserve
Luxury Accommodation: Hilton Garden Inn Mbabane
Also check out the entire list of family-friendly accommodations in eSwatini.
Tips eSwatini with kids
Practical tips eSwatini
If you will be traveling through eSwatini with kids, there are a few things to consider.
Travel documents: You need a passport valid for at least 6 months upon departure. For most travelers, a visa on arrival or for stays shorter than 30 days is not required. Always check the latest regulations.
Vaccinations: DTP and hepatitis A are recommended. Malaria pills may be necessary, especially if you travel to the east (e.g. Lubombo area). Therefore, always get proper information in your own country before traveling.
Travel insurance: Make sure you have good travel insurance that also covers medical care and possible evacuation.
Rent a car: The best way to travel through Eswatini with kids is with a rental car. Roads are generally well-traveled, and the country is small, so you never have to drive long distances. Most families with kids visit eSwatini from South Africa and rent a car here. Take a look online to rent a car in South Africa.
Child seats: Reserve a child seat with your rental car in advance.
Journey to eSwatini
There is an international airport (King Mswati III International Airport), but you cannot fly there directly from Europe. The most convenient route is via a major African city, such as
We did not do that ourselves, as we entered the country by car from South Africa. That’s actually quite doable as well. The border crossing went smoothly and you immediately notice that you are in a different country: the landscape changes a bit and the pace is just a bit slower. Really one of those countries where you have to slow down – literally and figuratively.
The nice thing about traveling by car is that you can also easily make some nice stops along the way. For example, we combined Eswatini with a visit to the Kruger Park, and that was a very cool combo.
Best travel time eSwatini
We were in Eswatini during the May vacation, which in Southern Africa coincides with the autumn period. As far as we were concerned, a very nice time to go.
During the day the weather was lovely, about 25 degrees with sunshine – perfect for trips, animal spotting or just driving around and exploring villages. In the evening it did cool down a bit, but not extremely. Still, we were glad to have a sweater or cardigan with us for the chilly hours after sunset.
What struck us: it was nice and quiet everywhere. No crowds of tourists, no queues, just enjoying nature and the people. So if you’re looking for a period where you have good weather and it’s not too crowded, the May vacation (or African autumn) is really recommended.
Transit to Kruger National Park
After a few wonderful days in Eswatini, we left the country through the Mananga border post in the north. As with entry, this border crossing was quick and smooth. In no time we were back in South Africa. From the border, it is less than an hour and a half drive to Crocodile Bridge, a gateway to the famous Kruger Park. Perfect for continuing your trip a little more adventurously!
Other children’s activities eSwatini
Besides visiting the Hlane Royal National Park, there are other attractions in eSwatini that you can visit with kids. We list them briefly below.
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
An ideal place for families! Mlilwane is a compact nature reserve where there are no dangerous predators. As a result, you can safely walk or bike here with the kids among the zebras, warthogs and impalas. There are also educational programs about nature and culture. Tip: spend the night in a traditional beehive house!
Swazi Cultural Village at Mantenga
At this open-air museum, you’ll learn what traditional Swazi life is like. You can tour a recreated village, watch dance performances (including impressive tribal dances), and learn about local customs. This is not only educational, but also great fun for kids. Tip: combine this with a short hike to the Mantenga waterfall.
Malolotja Nature Reserve
For families with slightly older kids (ages 6-7 and up), Malolotja is great. You can hike through impressive mountain landscapes and even zipline through the trees on the Malolotja Canopy Tour – an adventurous activity that appeals to many kids. Tip: Wear good shoes and bring warm clothes as it can be chilly.
Horseback riding in the Ezulwini Valley
In this beautiful valley you can go horseback riding with the whole family, even if you have no experience. Family-friendly ranches offer short rides, such as along rivers and through the forest. A peaceful way to explore nature. Tip: Ezulwini means “valley of heaven” – and the view is indeed beautiful!
Kayaking or boat ride on Maguga Dam
At Maguga Dam you can go kayaking or take a boat trip with older kids (from about 10 years old). The lake is in a hilly area and is beautifully peaceful. Tip: bring a picnic basket – there are fine places to have lunch with a view.
About the Author: Michelle loves adventure travel off the beaten path and has seen quite a bit of the world with her family. This ranges from camping in Africa to scuba diving in Indonesia, and there is still a lot left on their list!
