The Togian Islands in Indonesia are a tropical paradise in the middle of the Gulf of Tomini, perfect for families who love nature, peace and adventure. With clear blue waters, colorful coral reefs and friendly locals, you will discover the real island feeling here. Snorkel among turtles, sleep in a wooden beach house and enjoy fresh fish by the sea – in the Togian Islands you will experience an unforgettable trip off the beaten path with kids. Below we describe different islands of the Togian Islands.
Togian islands with kids
Batudaka island
After a long journey full of boats, vans and adventurous transfers, we arrived at Batudaka, the largest island in the Togean Islands. Yet you notice little of that as soon as you set foot ashore: the island breathes tranquility, nature and simplicity. No busy roads or crowds of tourists here, but swaying palm trees, clear turquoise sea and friendly locals who are still genuinely curious about visitors.
Batudaka is an island where time seems to stand still. You can hear the murmur of the sea, birdsong and the occasional soft hum of a generator. For families who want to escape completely from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this is paradise. The days are determined by the sun, the tide and when the bell sounds for dinner.
On this island we stayed at Poki Poki Cottages, a place where simplicity and comfort meet in a perfect way. Not a luxury resort, but a warm atmosphere, good food and an environment where kids can explore, play and enjoy endlessly.
Poki Poki may be situated on a large island, but during our stay we felt like we were on a desert island, like in Expedition Robinson. But with comfortable cottages and delicious food three times a day.
There is a row of cottages at the edge of the beach as well as one on a hill. Because when we booked (booking far in advance is a must!) there was no more four-person cottage available, we were given two cottages, one of which was the cottage on the hill. The cottages all have a toilet and a shower. This shower does not have hot water, but since it was very hot, we did not care.
Electricity is not a given on the islands, so generators are used. The one at Poki Poki Cottages was on from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. So after that it is pitch dark – flashlights are not a luxury then.
Another thing that is not a luxury at Poki Poki Cottages is bringing cash. Everything outside diving should be paid for that way. In fact, pinning is not possible in the Togean Islands.
Children’s activities Batudaka Island
#1 The sea at Poki Poki Cottages is warm, shallow and calm. So for kids it is wonderful to snorkel, swim and play in this. There is a nice jetty that can be jumped from. Our girls could spend a long time with this. It is also worth taking a walk along the beach at low tide. Then, in terms of animals and shells, there is all kinds of things to see – incredibly fun for the Freek Vonk kids among us.
#2 Our main activity in the Togean Islands was diving. And by “we” I mean not only the parents, but also our 10-year-old daughter. She had gotten her Open Water certification a few months before, so we thought it would be a good idea if she got some experience. After all, with diving it’s like driving a car: you learn by doing it.
We arranged the diving (including payment) through Poki Poki Cottages, who in turn contacted Bomba Divers. This diving school is a ten-minute boat ride from Poki Poki Cottages. In the morning, we were taken to the Bomba Divers jetty. There we rented the necessary gear we didn’t already have, such as fins, a BCD and lead. Wetsuits and masks we had ourselves.
From Bomba Divers we sailed to one of the many beautiful reefs, where the diving was beautiful and relaxing. After two dives, we were taken back to Poki Poki Cottages. All in all, we were gone half a day. Everything was incredibly relaxed, and even our daughter enjoyed the colorful marine life.
#3 Our youngest daughter, at six years old, unfortunately could not dive yet, but fortunately she could snorkel. Again, this is easy to do around Poki Poki Cottages. If you swim a bit, you will come to a house reef full of life. It is also possible to book day trips to other snorkeling spots through Poki Poki. These trips can last half a day or a full day.
#4 At Poki Poki Cottages, you can grab a canoe for a free trip in the bay. This canoe fits one adult and two kids – more gets too heavy. We did this several times, and it was always a very funny and enjoyable experience.
#5 In the Togean Islands, there is also a Jellyfish Lake – a lake full of harmless jellyfish in fresh water that you can swim among. From almost every island, they offer tours to this lake, including at Poki Poki Cottages. We did this later in our trip, from Malenge Island.
#6 In addition to the water, the jungle should not be forgotten. From Poki Poki Cottages it is possible to go bird watching with a guide. This can be combined with snorkeling and a visit to a nearby village.
#7 A real jungle trek is also among the possibilities. In the process, you will visit a bat cave and a village, among other things. Along the way, the guide talks a lot about the special plants and animals found in the jungle.
Family-friendly restaurant Batudaka island
At Poki Poki Cottages, cooking is done three times a day, with little else to choose from. Dietary requirements can of course be communicated in advance. Unusually, no meat (though fish) is served at Poki Poki Cottages.
You will eat lunch and dinner together with the other guests. Food is placed in bowls on the long tables and is often a variation of rice, vegetables, tempeh and fish. Breakfast tended to focus more on Western cuisine, such as pancakes. Fruit, by the way, was always there.
During the day you may grab free coffee, tea and water. Note that in almost all of the Togean Islands, there is no evaporated milk available. Although it took me a while to get used to drinking my coffee with only sugar, I got used to it faster than I thought I would.
By the way, when you ask, someone on the staff is happy to cut open a delicious fresh coconut for you. These – like soft drinks and beer – are put on a bill and must be paid in cash afterwards.
From Poki Poki Cottages, we booked a boat towards Una Una, the next island of our trip. The boat ride, using a wooden motorized boat, took about two hours.
Una Una island
Una Una is the small, round island of the Togean Islands. In the middle of this inhabited island is an active volcano, which can be visited with a guide.
We stayed at the Pristine Paradise Dive Resort, in a spacious cottage where they had put a large mattress for our girls. Our cottage was pretty much the only one with air conditioning, which we actually liked – a little extra comfort in the tropical climate.
The staff at Pristine Paradise Dive Resort was great: friendly, helpful and loved our daughters. Our youngest especially could have a potty with them and was even allowed to hang out in the kitchen from time to time. Moreover, there are many cats roaming the grounds, all of which were equally affectionate. Our girls thoroughly enjoyed cuddling with all those pooch creatures.
Also nice: payment for diving, bar bill and other expenses could simply be made by credit card at Pristine Paradise Dive Resort – something not possible on most other islands. Look online for more information about Pristine Paradise Dive Resort.
Children’s activities Una Una island
#1 Diving was again the main activity for us and our eldest daughter. What was very nice at Pristine Paradise Dive Resort is that the reefs are very close to the island. So the boat trips were short, and after each dive we simply returned to the resort. That way you were not gone half a day each time, but only an hour and a half.
We were assigned a regular dive guide who was incredibly nice with our daughter. He made jokes and playfully taught her all kinds of diving skills. Not surprisingly, she was very sad when we had to leave Una Una again.
#2 You can visit the volcano on the island with a guide. The trip takes about half a day and is especially fun with older kids who like hiking and adventure. Along the way you will pass through the jungle and have a chance to spot tropical birds.
#3 The village near Pristine Paradise Dive Resort is also worth a visit. There are a few small stores where you can buy candy and sometimes some drinks. During our walk, we got a lot of attention from the locals, but everyone was friendly and interested, which actually made it a pleasant experience.
#4 For snorkelers, trips are offered to the beautiful reefs around the island. The long jetty just off the resort is also home to plenty of marine life. The dock has several platforms that can be jumped from – something our daughters enjoyed endlessly (and we secretly did too!).
#5 As with many resorts, there were a lot of games, such as Uno, playing cards and Rummikub, which you were free to use. The staff often socialized in the evening, which made the resort even more homey.
Family-friendly restaurant Una Una
Also at Pristine Paradise Dive Resort, cooking was done three times a day, with dishes placed in bowls on long tables. The cuisine was Indonesian, so lots of rice, vegetables, tempeh and fish, but sometimes in the morning we would get pancakes or a Western variety. Fruit was always there, of course.
Shared meals provided a convivial atmosphere each time, with conversations between travelers from all over the world. Our daughters enjoyed meeting other kids and backpackers and exchanging stories about what they had seen that day.
Even though we were sad to leave Una Una, we were looking forward to the next wonderful destination: the island of Malenge.
Malenge island
After two hours of sailing, we arrived at Malenge, one of the most beautiful islands in the Togean Islands. Malenge is known for its clear blue waters, white beaches and spectacular views. Here there is still authentic island tranquility, with only the sound of crickets, birds and the sea in the background. It is a place where nature plays the leading role – perfect for families who want to escape the civilized world completely.
We stayed at the fairly new The Cliff Dive Resort, which – the name says it all – is built on a cliff. That means lots of stairs and elevation changes, but with a truly phenomenal view of the sea. The restaurant is designed so that you can see the sunset perfectly every night. The various cottages, built on tall stilts, all offer stunning views of the bay with clear blue waters and a white sandy beach.
The Cliff Dive Resort looks a little fancier than the other resorts we stayed at, but certainly not too luxurious. It still felt relaxed and family-friendly. Everything was just tightly organized – from the food to the diving school – making the stay wonderfully carefree. Look online for more information about The Cliff Dive Resort.
Children’s activities Malenge island
#1 The Cliff Dive Resort has its own diving school, which we took full advantage of. Because the resort and diving school had only just been set up, all the diving equipment was brand new. Everything was very relaxed: the boat was spacious and the different reefs were not far away. Still, we did not return immediately after each dive, but often stayed at sea. My husband and I even did a night dive at the Bajo Village, where we saw the extraordinary mandarin fish – an unforgettable experience.
#2 From The Cliff Dive Resort, you can walk down a path where there is a beautiful white beach that belongs to another resort. The beach is in a quiet cove with shallow, warm water – ideal for our youngest daughter of six. Here she could safely practice snorkeling, which was fantastic thanks to the crystal clear water.
We brought our own snorkeling gear, but it is also available for rent at The Cliff Dive Resort. The further you swim from the beach, the deeper the water gets and the more coral and fish you encounter. In addition to independent snorkeling on the house reef, the resort also offers organized snorkeling trips to nearby reefs.
#3 Hiking is quite possible on Malenge, although the terrain is hilly and often unpaved. There are several routes to choose from, which you can walk independently or with a guide. Especially in the early morning, when it is not so hot yet, it is a wonderful way to explore nature.
#4 The resort has two canoes that you can use for a small fee. My husband and youngest daughter took advantage of this while our oldest daughter and I were diving. They paddled quietly along the shore and saw the island from a completely different perspective – even a large cave full of bats!
#5 From many islands in the area you can take a trip to Jellyfish Lake, a lake full of harmless jellyfish in which you can swim and snorkel. We booked this excursion through The Cliff Dive Resort. Due to bad weather, the boat ride took about two hours, but once we arrived, it was nice and quiet. We were able to swim in peace among the jellyfish and take beautiful pictures – a unique experience we will never forget.
Family-friendly restaurant Malenge
What is different at The Cliff Dive Resort is that a buffet is served three times a day. Unlike the other resorts, here we did not sit at a long communal table, but at separate tables. The food was mostly Indonesian – with rice, vegetables, tempeh and fish – but there were occasional Western dishes in between.
Soft drinks and beer were available, and when we left we could pay with Wise (handy when you run out of cash). Payment by credit card was unfortunately not yet possible at the time of our stay.
The combination of the beautiful views, relaxed atmosphere and well-crafted meals made this resort one of the highlights of the Togean Islands for us. From Malenge, it was then about an hour and a half boat ride to Harmony Bay on Kadidiri, the last of the islands we visited.
Kadidiri island
After an hour and a half boat ride from Malenge, we arrived at Kadidiri, one of the most famous islands in the Togean Islands. This island is a little more lively than the other islands we visited, but still just as idyllic. White beaches, swaying palm trees and clear blue waters form the backdrop of Harmony Bay, a resort that lives up to its name.
Harmony Bay is a picture of a resort, with spacious cottages surrounded by palm trees on a white sandy beach. We were assigned a cottage that, by adding two mattresses, was transformed into a family cottage. The cottage had a shower, toilet and a spacious porch with two chairs and two hammocks. There we spent a lot of time, enjoying the beautiful view of the bay.
Like many resorts in the Togean Islands, Harmony Bay uses a generator. To save power, it was turned off at 10:30 at night. Only then do you notice how accustomed you are to electricity – especially to light. At 10:30 it was really pitch black, so we were glad to have our flashlights and head lamps.
Children’s activities Kadidiri island
#1 At Harmony Bay, due to the failure of a dive guide, there was only one dive guide working at that time. However, this one was very experienced and knowledgeable. When there were several divers, sometimes not everyone could join at the same time, but the staff did their best to arrange everything properly.
We regularly made two dives in a row and stayed at sea between dives. The reefs around Kadidiri are beautiful, with lots of color and life. Once again, our daughter enjoyed the underwater adventure immensely.
#2 From the resort you can take a nice walk through the jungle to a beach a bay away. At the resort, they are happy to explain how to walk so you don’t get lost. The trail is adventurous, with occasional climbing, but doable with kids who like hiking.
#3 There are also canoes for rent here that you can use to paddle along the various coves. We rented two and each took a daughter with us. The sea is calm enough to spend a few hours on the road, and along the way we discovered numerous beautiful spots.
#4 Of course, you can also do excellent snorkeling here. The bay is home to plenty of colorful marine life, and Harmony Bay also offers organized snorkeling trips to nearby reefs.
#5 The bay itself is a wonderful natural playground for kids. The water is not deep, the bottom is soft and there is plenty to discover. Our girls could play, snorkel and search for shells here until dark.
Family-friendly restaurant Kadidiri island
We found the food at Harmony Bay to be the tastiest of all the resorts we stayed at. The cuisine was more varied, with many Western influences – something that was very welcome after a few weeks of rice, vegetables and fish. On our first day, we even got pizza for lunch!
Food was served three times a day at a long table where you ate with the other guests. Breakfast was prepared only once you joined the restaurant, and you could usually choose from several options – often including a sweet variety, such as waffles. Of course, our daughters loved that.
Back to Luwuk and beyond
And then Harmony Bay was the last island of our trip through the Togean Islands with kids. It was now a matter of getting back to Luwuk, from where we would eventually fly to Makassar. At Harmony Bay we arranged a private boat that took us to the town of Bunta in three hours, where a cab was waiting for us. This cab then took us to Luwuk in three hours.
In Luwuk, we stayed again for two nights at the Swiss-Belinn Hotel, where we had been on the outward journey. Very nice to be back there again.
From Luwuk we flew to Makassar, from where we drove by cab to Rammang Rammang – an area known for its limestone cliffs and caves, a so-called karst region. Here we stayed for a few nights at the Rammang Rammang Eco Lodge and Café, where we took hikes and boat rides among the impressive rock formations.
Then, unfortunately, it was time to leave Indonesia. We flew from Makassar to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, where we stayed for two more nights in a luxury residential tower. After four weeks in nature, this was quite a culture shock. Kuala Lumpur is a real metropolis with huge shopping malls and every cuisine you can think of. We decided to embrace the contrast and enjoyed city life, sightseeing, shopping, eating delicious food and swimming in the infinity pool on the 35th floor of our residential tower.
And as comfortable as that was, our love remains with nature. Then our vacation was truly over. We flew from Kuala Lumpur via Istanbul to Frankfurt, where we drove our own car back to the Netherlands – after a truly unforgettable trip.
Tips Togian Islands with kids
Preparation Togian Islands
According to the GGD, malaria does not occur in the Togean Islands, so we did not take medication for this. We did take plenty of Deet with us, however, as mosquitoes are plentiful.
In terms of travel vaccinations, we and our 10-year-old daughter Amber were already fully provided for. For our six-year-old daughter, we still had to visit the GGD for a Hepatitis A vaccination.
Best travel time Togian Islands
We left at the beginning of summer vacation and returned in mid-August. This proved to be a fine travel time with hardly any rain. It was very hot though, but fortunately we quickly got used to that.
Sun intensity is strong, and since we stayed on islands for most of the trip, sunburn was constantly lurking. So our girls often swam in uv suits and we always had factor 50 sunscreen within reach.
Transportation to the Togian Islands
Wanting to cut costs and not fly through Schiphol, we opted to depart from Frankfurt. So we drove by car to Frankfurt airport, where we parked the car at Airparks (long term parking). From Frankfurt, we flew to Istanbul, and from there on to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.
To enter Malaysia, you need a Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (MDAC), a type of visa that can be applied for free online. Note that there are websites that charge money for this, but these are fraudulent. Unfortunately, due to fatigue, we did fall for this, so be alert.
At Kuala Lumpur Airport (KLIA 2) we stayed at the Tune Hotel, where we were given two rooms connected by a connecting door – ideal with kids. It was a pleasant moment of rest after the long journey, and in the morning we enjoyed a rich buffet breakfast.
After a good night’s sleep, we flew on AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur to Makassar, in Sulawesi, Indonesia, in just three hours. Upon arrival, we had to arrange a Visa on Arrival, which could only be paid in cash. The cost was Rp 500,000, about 35 euros per person.
In Makassar, we again stayed at an airport hotel, the Cordia Hotel, which is located right in the departure hall. So we didn’t have to leave the airport – ideal with kids. The next morning we walked straight from breakfast in the departure hall to the Batik Air check-in desk for our next flight, because we weren’t there yet!
In Makassar, we again noticed that as Westerners we stood out quite a bit. Our girls were asked by many people for a photo. Fortunately, they did not find this annoying, as people in Indonesia are incredibly friendly and respectful. From Makassar we flew in an hour to Luwuk, a place in Sulawesi. From here we would reach the Togean Islands by road and water.
Overnight stay in Luwuk
Because it was a long trip and we allowed our girls – as well as ourselves – some time to acclimate, we stayed two nights in Luwuk. We rented a villa at the Swiss-Belinn, just a 15-minute drive from the airport.
The Swiss-Belinn also has regular rooms, but we chose a villa with two bathrooms, separate bedrooms, a kitchen and a private pool. There is also a large swimming pool, a spa and a gym. We enjoyed the breakfast buffet there, while lunch and dinner were a la carte.
After a night of good sleep, we visited Piala Falls, just a 15-minute drive from the hotel. A cab ride took us there. The falls are in the middle of the green jungle, where countless butterflies flutter about. There was also a natural pool where you could swim – something our girls obviously loved, despite the cold water.
To Ampana
After two nights, it was time to move on. From Luwuk, we booked a cab that took us to Ampana in about five hours. There we stayed one night before finally taking the boat to the Togean Islands.
In Ampana, we stayed at Triple R Homestay, a simple but charming accommodation. From the outside you don’t expect it, but inside it is a neat accommodation with spacious rooms. We were given an air-conditioned quadruple room and enjoyed a full Western-style breakfast in the morning. The kids were also thought of – for example, there was delicious chocolate banana bread on the table.
Triple R Homestay does not serve lunch or dinner, so we walked to D’Langit, a restaurant fifteen minutes’ walk away. There we ate local dishes, but fortunately there was also spaghetti on the menu. Ampana is otherwise not very touristy, so we had many sightseers along the way and were frequently asked for pictures. Our oldest loved it – she felt like a real celebrity.
We inquired with the manager of Triple R Homestay about the current departure times of the boat to the Togean Islands. He also arranged transportation to the port for us.
The boat to the Togean Islands
The next morning, a tuktuk took us to the port in 15 minutes, where we checked in for the boat. It was a closed speedboat that took us to the Bomba area on Batudaka Island in less than an hour.
We first docked at Poya Lisa Cottages because the speedboat could not dock at the small jetty at Poki Poki Cottages. From there, we sailed another ten minutes on a smaller boat. And then – after a very long journey – we finally arrived at our first destination in the Togean Islands.
